Germans call it Lemberger, Austrians call it Blaufränkisch; let's call the whole thing off. What's important is that this black grape variety produces spicy wines with good tannins and firm acidity, similar to one of the crus of Beaujolais; in fact, until recently, Blaufränkisch was believed to be Gamay. These are often ageworthy wines, and they're some of the best things coming out of Austria these days.