Rovitello, Benanti - 2013

Visionaries, pioneers, or just plain plucky, the Benanti family were one of the first to recognize the potential of Mt. Etna for producing fine wine.They began more than 30 years ago, suspecting that volcanic soils, cool climate, indigenous grapes would make extraordinary wines, and they were right.Their efforts did nothing less than jumpstart the transformation of Sicily from a source of plonk to one of wines that inspire cult-like devotion. All of their wines are great, but this is swoon inducing. The grapes come from a mixed vineyard of ungrafted 80-year-old vines mostly Nerello Mascalese with 5% Cappucio, at 2460 feet on NE facing slopes. It's light ruby in the glass, ethereal and earthy, with subtle oak, fine tannins and a complex balance of spicy dark fruit, plums dark cherry. A stunningly elegant wine for the ages.