Liguria is the region that encompasses the Italian Riviera in northern Italy. This comes from a husband and wife team making wines in the town of San Biagio della Cima in the heart of Dolceacqua. The vines, some of which are 120 years in age, are all planted to the Rossese grape. The soils are full of silica and clay giving a structure to this already dense wine due the vine age. An excellent foil at the table.
I was pretty bummed when we ran out of my fave Oreste Buzio Grignolino. I love Grignolino and I want to see it everywhere. Unfortunately, I don't see if everywhere, so sometimes I have to try something new. Something I'd never had and knew nothing about was Rossese di Dolceaqua, an aromatic grape that you also won't see everywhere (only 85 hectares planted!) Tasting the vibrant offering from Maccario Dringenberg was like a revelation. I could actually feel it's little elbows making room next to Grignolino for a spot in my top 10. Fitting for a grape that has been described as "angles everywhere". Red fruit abounds, but what really strikes is the enticing black peppercorn. Like Grignolino, it somehow manages to be light, yet full at the same time. Spicy, pleasantly tannic with lively cranberry, raspberry, cherry and oh so much pepper.
While perhaps more famous for its topless beaches, Liguria also produces some truly outstanding and unusual white wines. As the region is dominated primarily by coastal villages, it’s not surprising that the typical Liguria diet is rich in seafood - and as such, snappy, high-acidity whites are quite the M.O. One notable exception is the wine made from the idiosyncratic Pigato grape, which...
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Astor Wines & Spirits 399 Lafayette St. New York, NY 10003
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