You don't need to imagine the joy of drinking a 30-year aged Pineau des Charentes thanks to the stunning work of Jacky Navarre. This aperitif from the Cognac region is made by fortifying grape juice (or must) with cognac, and perfunctory aging is required, not more than a year and 6 months total. Navarre crushes those requirements, aging his Grande Champagne Cognac for six years before fortifying Ugni Blanc must and aging the concoction for thirty years. The high acidity of Ugni lifts prune and raisin aromas and flavors. Pair this rarity with foie gras or blue cheese.
Seriously delicious but under the radar, this pineau is remarkably complex and refined. Jacky Navarre is a fourth-generation Cognac producer who hand harvests his grapes. One hectare out of his 11 is used for pineau production.The must is fortified with 6-year-old Cognac (not the usual year-old eau de vie), and spends 30 years in barrel. The result is a lusciously full-bodied, complex wine that tastes of toffee, cinnamon, baked apples, dried figs and walnuts. This is an excellent wine for dessert rather than as an aperitif.
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Astor Wines & Spirits 399 Lafayette St. New York, NY 10003
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