A great X.O. will strike its balance right at the moment when the brandy, after many years maturing in oak casks in the various types of cellar conditions on Cognac, has clearing crossed the rubicon from youth to full on maturity and bringing with it all the glorious complexity that comes with it. While these brandies could continue to develop in extraordinary cases, the level of complexity at this stage is unmistakable and incredibly impressive.
Francis Voyer is the kind of producer we love here at Astor: small production, family run, and making exquisitely hand-crafted spirits. The family has been in the Cognac business since 1870 and now have 28 hectares of vineyards in Grande Champagne, a region known for producing Cognacs with power and potential for long aging. Their XO is an extraordinary example of how that power is harnessed into an incredibly refined, elegant sip. The XO aging hints the sweet spot between youthful fruitiness and complex maturity. Gorgeous aromas of vanilla, peach, and toffee lead to an effortlessly smooth, rich palate of spices, ripe pear, and forest floor. One of the finest Cognacs I've had in a very long time.
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Astor Wines & Spirits 399 Lafayette St. New York, NY 10003
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