A Blanc de Noirs Champagne that's all-around delicious and easily a bottle you can share with anyone as the fruit is pure, round and accessible. The Michel Loriot estate is one whose bottles over-deliver across the board. From a small grower whose specialty is Pinot Meunier, or Meunier, as the locals say. Meunier has a color of dark purple, nearly black, Meunier has made it into their color vernacular when referring to something of this hue. What's most fascinating at this estate is the relevant practice of playing music in the vineyards and the cellar (to the wines aging sur latte) in order to change the molecular structure of the wines. Music is of particular importance at the Michel Loriot estate as there are generations of musicians going back to the early 20th century.
There are seven grapes that are allowed in the vinification of proper Champagne, and of those seven you only really see three (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier), and of those three you really only see Chardonnay and Pinot Noir made into 100% varietal bubbles. But here we have a champagne made entirely from Meunier, and it's so good that I can't understand why they aren't more popular. The aromatics call to mind red fruit, wildflowers, and exotic spice, with a focused, clay-like minerality. There's a little bit of toast, but nothing overwhelming. The wine is, on the whole, fantastically well-balanced, and would be a really, really good choice if you want a bottle to pair with a meal. Try it early in the morning with smoked salmon on bagels, or chicken schintzel sandwiches with a passion fruit chutney.
Champagne is finally getting the recognition it deserves as a brilliant food wine. For consistency and quality, turn to the big Champagne brands and you’ll never go wrong. Remember that “Non-Vintage” (NV) is not a dirty word here: NV Champagnes are blends of wines from the best growing seasons. But if you can find one, try a Champagne made by a Grower-Producer. These winemakers control every...
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Astor Wines & Spirits 399 Lafayette St. New York, NY 10003
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