Olevano Romano "Silene", Damiano Ciolli - 2021

In antiquity, Latium wines were considered the world's best, reserved only for emperors and those close to them. This is epitomized by the 'Opimian vintage of 121 BC,' so age-worthy that they were served at a 60 B.C. banquet for Julius Caesar, in honor of his Spanish conquests! Until recently, however, Latium wines often left much to be desired. But this all changed in the 90's, with pioneers like Fiorano, and more recently, with the likes of Andrea Occhipinti and Damiano Ciolli. Cesanese is Ciolli's specialty--and it is BY FAR the best I've ever had. In the past, Cesanese has shown itself to be clumsy and forgettable, but in Ciolli's hands it shows its true potential. Lighter than I expected, and with little tannin, 'Silene' reminds me of a deliciously juicy style of Merlot, if it were to be laced with beef jerky and teriyaki sauce.