Valtellina Superiore, Sassella, Rocce Rosse, Ar Pe Pe - 1996

Nebbiolo may have earned its place on the world stage via Barolo and Barbaresco, but the grape thrives throughout all of northeast Italy. In Valtelina, along the mountainous Swiss border, it's known as Chiavennasca and produces wines that are lighter, with more finesse than its more famous neighbors. One of the top producers in the region is Ar Pe Pe, which is now in the hands of the fifth generation: Isabella, Emanuele, and Guido. The Pelizzattis have kept to old-school winemaking with long macerations and aging in large chestnut and oak. Sassella is their best vineyard with its steep, south-facing slopes allowing for a longer soak in the sun. At nearly 20 years old this wine is still in its youth and needs a lot of time to open up (decant!). When it does you'll find gorgeous ripe cherries, licorice, tobacco, and earthy notes.