Etna Rosso "I Nove Fratelli", Masseria del Pino - 2021

It's not difficult for wine freaks like us to get poetic about certain bottles, but this Etna Rosso really sent me. It's comforting like a hug, or perhaps a warm bowl of mac n cheese. Part of that warmth comes from the aromatic intensity, how it jumps out of the glass and melts against your face, dried figs, cherries, a bit of leather. The tannins are smooth, hidden almost. It's brilliant with parmigiano and caponata of course, and works fabulously with poultry. Burgundy lovers, give this your attention. Made from a painstakingly restored 1 ha plot of centenarian vines on the northern slopes of Etna, the two Nerellos are spontaneously fermented in volcanic stone vats, aged in tonneaux for a year, and bottled unfiltered. Labeled as Sicilia IGT after the winemakers decided to leave the Etna DOC, this wine is just as punk as it is pretty.