Vaimaki Family, Mater Natura 4 - 2009

Sometimes wandering through the store can feel like a treasure hunt. One minute you're perusing the Sauvignon Blancs and the next you spot a bottle with a decade or two of age that's under $50. It feels like discovering a Prada jacket in a close-out bin. The 2009 Xinomavro has been one of the more exceptional surprises. The Vaimakis family have been making wine since the late 19th century and were pioneers in natural winemaking. Mater Natura is their line of wines with no added sulfites. The pale garnet color in the glass belies the intensity on the palate. This is a shape-shifter, a constantly evolving swirl of cherry, blackberry fruit roll-ups, leather, and oak. It's elegant and earthy at the same time, a great pair with roasted lamb or any braised meat. A true gem.