Togonidze's Wine, Kisi - 2021

Does life imitate art or the other way around? For Gia Togonidze, a former professional artist who pivoted his practice from the studio to the cellar, the answer is less important than the process. Togonidze’s Winery, located in the mountainous Kakheti of Georgia where wine was “born” around 6,500 BC, is a throwback to the way wine was made before the Soviets, the Ottomans, and the Persians. Togonidze cultivates indigenous varieties on his small estate and ages his wine in qvevri, egg-shaped clay vessels that are buried underground. His Kisi (blended with Rkatseteli) is a classic expression of the ancient variety: extended skin contact gives the wine a golden hue while the qvevri aging helps retain the vibrant aromatics, with notes of apricot, ripe citrus, and honey, and a touch of black tea. Pair with with meat, cheese, and debates.