Sven Enderle and Florian Moll fly in the face of just about every conventional estate in Baden. It’s hard to emphasize how contrarian their vineyard and cellar work appears to the powerful coops of the region, to say nothing of the estates who still seem to pursue efficiency, ripeness, size, alcohol and, yes, new oak, with abandon. This is the opposite of showy, the contrary to big and is everything you want in a drinkable white wine tonight.